From Pizza to Pad Thai to Peking Duck: Traveling Thailand, Part III

The heartbeat of Thailand is Bangkok, and no visit to Thailand is complete without at least a short stay in one of Asia's most unique and fascinating cities. One could spend a week in Bangkok and still not see everything. The "Old City" is a highlight of any visit to Bangkok.

Bangkok was known as the "Venice of the East," from the 17th to the early 19th century. During this time, most transport in Bangkok was done along the main Chao Phraya River and the smaller network of canals connecting to the main river. Boats were the main mode of transport until the late 19th century. Today, using river transport to avoid the infamous Bangkok traffic is still one of the best ways to travel around the "Old City". Bangkok is known to the Thai's as Krung Thep (City of Angels), which is it's nick name. The formal name of Thailand translates into one entire paragraph which begins as "Great city of angels, the repository of divine gems, the great land unconquerable..."

View of the Chao Phraya River and the Grand Palace as viewed from Wat Arun

A seat on the water taxi

The water taxis which run up and down the River are one of the best deals in Bangkok. A one way ticket, which covers travel from the main stop at Sathorn up the river to the Phra Athit Pier takes about 75 minutes round trip and costs 40 baht ($1.35 USD). The BTS Skytrain connects with the water taxi stop at the Saphan Taxsin stop - just head downstairs from the Skytrain platform and walk towards the river to the water taxi station! You can cruise up the river and hop off at the Grand Palace, a great place to start a walking tour of the old city.

One word of warning when walking from the water taxi station towards the Grand Palace... "touts" may approach you to tell you that the Palace is closed, but they are more than willing to take you to temples that are open! Just smile, ignore them, and keep on walking towards the Palace! They are trying to get you to hop on to their "friend's" tuk tuk, who will take you to shops of their other friends. They don't mean any harm, but it is extremely annoying. The last time this happened to me, the older gentlemen flashed his "Royal Thai Police Badge" - I have seem him every time I go to the Grand Police, but he has stopped bothering me! The Palace is open every day. The dress code for the Grand Palace is: covered shoes, (flip flops not recommended) woman must have shoulders and knees covered - skirts, crop pants or long pants are all fine. Men must wear long pants and covered shoulders. If you are not appropriately dressed, you can borrow clothes for a small fee from stands right along the complex. The Grand Palace complex is amazing, probably one of the most crowded tourist attractions in Bangkok, but worth the crowds - just inside the gates is the newly opened Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles - a beautiful, small museum which showcases the beautiful textiles of Thailand, as well as many of the beautiful Thai silk gowns worn by the Queen.

Inside the Grand Palace Complex

The Grand Palace complex covers over 5 acres of land, and was established in 1782, when Bangkok become the new capital of Thailand, following Ayutthaya and Thonburi. This amazing complex is also home to Wat Phra Kaeo, and the most venerated image in the Kingdom, the Emerald Buddha - which is actually made of jadeite! Immediately inside the gates, you have the option of hiring an English speaking guide - I highly recommend this, you will learn lots of interesting information.

The Emerald Buddha - in his winter attire!

Wat Pho

The Reclining Buddha

Just south of the Grand Palace is Wat Pho, the oldest and largest temple complex in Bangkok. This temple was built in the 16th century, and is home to one of the longest reclining Buddhas in the country, 151 feet long and 50 feet high. This temple has resident monks, a highly respected massage school, a school for children and feels like a community center. The dress code applies to this temple, as well.

Wat Arun

If you are not "templed out", Wat Arun, which is directly across the river from Wat Pho is another wonderful temple complex. The easiest way to get to Wat Arun is to walk out of Wat Pho and head straight ahead to the Water Taxi Station - Tha Tien. You can hop onto a cross river taxi for 3 baht - and spend another couple of hours exploring this gorgeous temple complex. Wat Arun is named for Aruna, the Indian God of Dawn, because legend has it that King Taxsin arrived here at dawn to establish Thonburi as the new capital in 1767. Wat Arun was built showing a strong Khmer influence in the stule of the prangs. The story behind the mosaics that cover the prang is fascinating - in the 19th century, Chinese traders who came to Thailand used broken ceramic as ballast in their ships, and rather than throw this ballast out, it was recycled to decorate the temples! The steep steps mounting the sides of the temple are said to symbolize the challenge that people face as they try to reach a higher level of enlightenment. The view of Bangkok from the upper level is worth the climb!

Detail of the ceramic mosaics on Wat Arun

The beautiful and classic hotel, The Mandarin Oriental is also located along the river - it is the first stop north of the Sathorn Pier - this hotel is the oldest hotel in the city, opening in 1879, and has hosted such illustrious visitors as Joseph Conrad, Somerset Maugham, Graham Green, Tennessee Williams, James Michener, Diane, Princess of Wales and Prince Charles...This hotel hosts daily high tea, beginning at noon, in the Author's Room, which is in the original part of the hotel. It is a wonderful way to spend a couple of hours.